In England, the sixth of January(Epiphany) marks the demise of the Christmas decorations we have so lovingly installed just a few weeks earlier. I have always found this a sad date in my calendar. How glad then was I to discover that Christmas decorations remain intact here well into February! What better way to brighten up the dark winter days?
A celebration
Here in Bulgaria the date marks a quite different event. In a predominately Orthodox country the sixth of January celebrates Epiphany. This event is interpreted quite literally as the day that Christ was baptised in the River Jordan.
Freezing conditions
We had heard of the famous Epiphany celebrations each year at Kalofer, one of our neighbouring villages. Each year the men in the village celebrate the event by entering the freezing river ‘en mass’.
We decided that this year we would go and see the celebration for ourselves. We arrived at seven in the morning, but discovered that we were already too late to obtain either a nearby parking spot or a good view of the festivities. Undeterred we joined the excited throng of people decking either side of the river bank.
Snow swirled around us as we impatiently awaited the start of the celebrations. It was still very dark, and the cold gnawed through our clothes, but the air of excitement quashed all thoughts of returning to our warm car.
Warm spirits
We were not disappointed. We were soon partakers of an extravaganza of traditional music, colourful costume, fervent patriotism, and unbridled joviality. The revellers, led by a band of drummers and bagpipers (yes, bag pipes appeared here centuries ago) all swarmed excitedly down to the river bank.
The lively procession headed down the main street before lining up to surge into the freezing river water. The men had been up all night drinking red wine to prepare them for their ordeal. We were told later that this spirit was the best one for the job. The river had been dammed to make it deeper at the important point by the bridge. We weren’t sure how cold the water was, but temperatures here in winter can drop into the minus 20s.
The first person to enter was required to break any ice for those who followed. After wading through the freezing water and circling together in traditional dance, the young men gathered excitedly for the highlight of the occasion.
The local priest climbed onto the bridge spanning the river and after prayers and incantations he ceremonially threw a hand-held cross into the icy water. Tradition dictates that the person who is able to retrieve this is guaranteed prosperity, health and happiness for the coming year.
Despite our poor vantage point (we must arrive even earlier next year) we thoroughly enjoyed the procession and the contagious excitement. A much better start to the new year than taking down my Christmas decorations!
Epiphany is celebrated throughout the land
Though the ceremony at Kalofer is a particularly famous one, this same ritual takes place all over Bulgaria on Epiphany each year – though not always including the water baptism.
