Karlovo – Our Nearest Town

Karlovo is our nearest large town and we love it!  There is a beautiful square surrounded by bars and restaurants where one can sit on one of the many balmy days and enjoy the street cafe culture.  The square also hosts regular festivals and other forms of entertainment.  Once the site of a horrific massacre inflicted under the Ottoman rule, it now houses flowers, fountains, and an array of patriotic statues and flags.

Karlovo Old Town

The Old Town is not far from the square and comprises a collection of attractive traditional buildings, a small square of its own, an old church and some lovely little shops and restaurants.  Cobbled streets complete the ambience. The Rose Shop with its display of local products is Also situated on the edge of the old town.  Since moving to Bulgaria I have become increasingly enamoured by these delicious rose products.

The Museum Trail

The Old Town is also home to a number of historic and beautiful buildings which have now been renovated and turned into museum property. Known now as Buhalov Khan, I was particularly impressed by the craft centre. Once an upmarket hotel, the ornate building is now hone to artisans and crafts people who make an array if delightful traditional products. This really was an inspiring day out.

The Vassil Levski Museum

A further museum very well worth visiting is the Vassil Levski Museum

Vassil Levski is probably the best known name in this area of Bulgaria.  There are an array of buildings, streets and monuments in his honour.  After learning more about him at the museum in Karlovo (situated on the site of his indigenous home) I understood why.  This was a remarkable man, with a remarkable story that brought me to tears.  Surely one of the bravest men that ever lived.

The museum comprises of a visitors centre which includes toilets.  You then enter a lovely courtyard area where Levski’s original home stands.  The tiny dwelling with its display of traditional artificers gives a true flavour of what working class life would have been like at this time.  There is then a museum building with an impressive display of portraits and video footage – also available in English.  The staff are excellently informed and helpful. The path then leads on to a small chapel where Levski’s famous locks of hair are treasured. The story behind this brought me to tears.  Well worth a visit.

Karlovo is Surrounded by Mountains

I captured the below image on one of our first visits to Karlovo and still love it.  Bulgaria is a country of contrasts: the traditional and the modern, the rich and the poor, the opulent and the rustic.  This image, for me, encapsulates this zeitgeist, as well as showcasing the beautiful mountains that form the backdrop to the interesting place that is now our home.

Amazing and Historic Restaurants

One of our favourite restaurants, if not ‘the’ favourite of them all is  Едно Време!

Secreted in the back streets of the town one can easily over look this hidden delight.  Once a harem under the Ottoman rule, it is now an exquisite restaurant.  With the Balkan mountains providing a majestic backdrop, it exudes history, intrigue, and opulence.

Entering the gateway one is met by the tastefully landscaped courtyard, where one can  imagine the  harem’s occupants walking in the cool of the evening, encircled by their high stone wall.  Brightly coloured flowers celebrate every corner of the garden.  The sound of  running water, pleasant chatter, and lazy jazz music calms the ear.  The aroma of good food, including the superb outdoor barbecue, entices the appetite as one sits under the engulfing parasols, protected from the penetrating sun.  Silver service attentiveness makes the meal feel even more indulgent.  Excellent wine from a local vineyard and poured by the waiter completes the ambience.

Inside the historic building Bulgarian Revival style lavish surroundings further enhance the experience.  Ornately decorated ceilings, dark wood panelling, original art work, heavy  damask fabrics, all add a touch of the exotic to an intimate dinner.  We have enjoyed some splendid meals in these surroundings.  I can highly recommend the ‘Chicken Karlovo’, a rich dish of chicken in a peaches and cream sauce; followed by homemade ice cream with honeycomb and green figs.

To top it all – the restaurant is dog friendly!